House of Frieh

Like? Love.

2011-11-02T11:36:00.000-07:00

Admittedly an older article but considering how many times I have found myself rereading it since it's publication I feel it appropriate to post here.

Liking Is for Cowards. Go for What Hurts.

Slow News Day

2011-10-18T11:34:00.000-07:00

"Repeat Offender" in the news:

Alpinist Magazine

Climbing Magazine

American Alpine Journal

Thanks to the Copp-Dash Inspire Award and the Mazama Expedition Committee for supporting our trip, Dieter Klose for support and allowing us to climb while the Icecap was “closed for the season” and to our pilot Wally from Temsco Air.

Above all many thanks to my partners Dave and Zac, my Gym Jones family for helping me find my way even if only a step at a time, and my wife Shannon for holding the fort down at home with Jack and baby to be while I pursue my craft.

You get what you give

2011-10-05T13:51:00.000-07:00

02.21.2009: Fundamentals seminar: student
02.22.2009: Fundamentals seminar: student
07.10.2009: Private training: 2 hours + FYF
07.11.2009: Private training: 2 hours
07.09.2010: Private training: 2 hours + FYF
07.10.2010: Private training: 2 hours + coaching assistant at training session
07.11.2010: Intermediate seminar: student
07.12.2010: Intermediate seminar: student
10.08.2010: Private training: 2 hours + FYF + coaching assistant at training session
10.09.2010: Fundamentals seminar: assistant
10.10.2010: Fundamentals seminar: assistant
12.02.2010: Fundamentals seminar: assistant
12.03.2010: Fundamentals seminar: assistant + coaching assistant at training session
12.04.2010: Intermediate seminar: assistant
12.05.2010: Intermediate seminar: assistant
03.04.2011: Private training: 2 hours + FYF + coaching assistant at training session
03.05.2011: Fundamentals seminar: assistant
03.06.2011: Fundamentals seminar: assistant
05.27.2011: Private training: 2 hours + FYF
05.30.2011: Private training: 2 hours
06.24.2011: Private training: 2 hours + FYF
06.25.2011: Intermediate seminar: assistant
06.26.2011: Intermediate seminar: assistant
07.08.2011: Private training: 2 hours + FYF
07.09.2011: Fundamentals seminar: assistant
07.10.2011: Fundamentals seminar: assistant
08.01.2011: Advanced seminar: student
08.02.2011: Advanced seminar: student
08.03.2011: Advanced seminar: student
08.04.2011: Advanced seminar: student
08.05.2011: Advanced seminar: student
11.05.2011: Fundamentals seminar: assistant
11.06.2011: Fundamentals seminar: assistant

First Ascent of the East Arete of Burkett Needle "Repeat Offender"

2011-09-18T15:54:00.000-07:00

I am pleased to report the First Ascent of the East Arete of Burkett Needle. As this was Dave and I's second First Ascent on the Needle we thought "Repeat Offender" was an appropriate name.

Trip Report with a few pictures: link

As this expedition was financially supported by the Copp Dash Inspire Award as well as the Mazamas we will be putting together a slide show and video of the climb. As we would like to save the best material for the show you likely noticed I didnt put too many pictures in the trip report. That said if you like what you see make sure to come to a slide show!

Lastly many thanks to the Copp-Dash Inspire Award and the Mazama Expedition Committee for supporting our trip, Dieter Klose for support and allowing us to climb while the Icecap was “closed for the season” and to our pilot Wally from Temsco Air.

Ice Season: Game On

2011-09-06T15:49:00.000-07:00

2011/12 Ice Season: Day 1

Gym Jones Advanced Seminar

2011-07-29T11:56:00.000-07:00

Sometime around five am this Sunday I will divide the french press between my thermos and coffee mug, finish loading the car, hold my two favorite people one more time and point it east for Salt Lake City to spend the following six days with some of my other favorite people. I've spent the last week covering the last minute details with my athletes, my colleagues at work and most importantly my family for my week long absence while I attend the Gym Jones advanced seminar. For well over a year now I have been specially preparing for this seminar and I couldn't be more excited that it is finally here. In doing so I've fielded a number of questions:

"How many trips to Gym Jones is this for you?"

I had to dig back through my public training journal to get the exact number but it appears this is my 11th visit to Gym Jones. I am fortunate to have found my way there in 2009 and honored to continue to have the opportunity to grow as both an athlete and coach under their guidance. I consider the insight and knowledge they have imparted to me the catalyst for much of my success in climbing.

"Will you be a Gym Jones Certified Instructor after this?"

The Advanced Seminar is the third step towards certification. Successful completion of the advanced seminar will allow me to apply to be certified by Gym Jones. So though I will be much closer I will not yet be an instructor. I hope one day I can say I am.

I will do my best to detail my daily activities in my public training journal as well as blog posts like I did last year at the Intermediate seminar.

The goose is loose

2011-07-27T10:05:00.000-07:00

Goose Egg mountain. Loose? Choss? Dirty? Sure... why not? But it's why I keep coming back. It's that "in your face" feeling that is so hard to recreate at most cragging locations. And six pitch routes close to Portland are hard to come by. I'd recommend starting with Ride the Lightning and if you're not completely repulsed come on back.

Trip report with pictures here: ->LINK<-

The best way to train for alpine climbing is...

2011-07-25T15:09:00.000-07:00

"Make no mistake about it, alpine climbing is an endurance sport, and to excel at it, you need to be serious about training specifically for it. (The sensible, of-repeated maxim that the best way to train for rock climbing is to go rock climbing most definitely does not apply to alpine climbing.) I was particularly influenced by this blog by Steve House, as well as getting to know Ueli Steck during a recent expedition to the Himalaya. These guys are probably the two greatest two alpinists in the game today, and they spend as much time running and doing other forms of “non-technical” endurance training as they do hanging out at the crag."

The Great Circle by Freddie Wilkinson

Making Things Right

2011-07-21T10:43:00.000-07:00

It's been awhile. It wasn't my intention; please let me explain.

Huntington shouldn't have happened. It wasn't planned. But it did.

I came home high on the buzz of success and affirmation my training approach to climbing was working (I should note just because it works for me doesn't mean it will work for you. Alternatively what works for you may or may not work for me. Find your own path). Better yet it felt like I was prepared for my next Alaska trip. I can't begin to describe the focus I had.

And just like that it was all taken away from me. Or to be fair I had to let it go.

I still hadn't regained the feeling in my frost nipped toes from Huntington when I learned one of my colleagues was leaving for "external opportunities" and I had the "fortune" (misfortune?) of taking over his high profile project. The delivery date and associated timeline were so tight it was obvious to me the Dickey trip was no longer an option. By the end of the meeting it was more than my toes that were numb.

I will be the first person to say if I had chosen a different life path I never would have found myself in this situation. But I didn't. I'm a father and a husband first and for that simple reason I politely bowed out of the trip.

Though I never even set foot on the glacier it felt like failure to me. It still does. I let my partners Dylan and Roger down. I let everyone associated with the Mugs Stump Award down. I let my coach Rob MacDonald down. I let Mark and Lisa Twight down. I let Gym Jones down. I let myself down.

And though everyone says they understand and respect my decision that doesn't make it okay. The best way to make this right is to get right back at it. Show it was an anomaly; that it won't happen again.

Fortunately I should get the opportunity to do just that. My team was selected as one of the recipients of the Copp Dash Inspire Award.

I will do my best to make things right.

Mount Huntington, Alaska Winter Ascent

2011-03-21T22:58:00.000-07:00

Trip report with pictures here: ->LINK<-

"The Daily Commute" PDX -> SLC

2011-03-10T10:08:00.000-08:00

I returned late Sunday night from a long weekend in Salt Lake City at Gym Jones assisting at the Fundamentals seminar. This was my sixth visit to Gym Jones since my first visit in February of 2009.

A few people asked me this week why I travel to Gym Jones so often, especially considering this was my fourth Fundamentals seminar (one as an attendee, three as an assistant).

Though the reasons are numerous the primary reason I travel to Gym Jones so often is to realign myself to my chosen path. For the same reasons Gym Jones is private is the same reason I seek them out.

"We surround ourselves with people like ourselves, and with those whom we admire and want to become. Instead of proscribing discomfort we prescribe it. When we exercise we also exorcise. We value horsepower ahead of appearance not vice-versa. We control our environment to produce the results we seek.

Gym Jones is private. Rules and standards separate it from the norm. Private implies control, which means Gym Jones is not open to everyone. However, private does not mean closed."

I believe we all need to be reminded what hard, intelligent work is. All too often we convince ourselves not only that our daily level of intensity is the best we can do, but that our program is the best one to meet our needs. We all make this mistake, myself included. To avoid this mishap, to stray from the path if you will, I provide myself a reoccurring reality check.

And I'm not the only one. This weekend I watched three Philadelphia Eagles starters hammer away on the rower, I cheered on two 140 pound cyclists attempting to squeeze 300 calories out of an AirDyne (if you understand physics you'll understand how hard it is for a lightweight individual to do this). I met two men that had traveled from Denmark to be there; even the heinous jet lag wasn't enough to diminish their enthusiasm for being there and training. I saw my coaches, made some new friends, and caught up with some old ones. It was home.

We were all here for the same reason: we want to be the best we can be given the other constraints our lives. And for this reason we choose to work with the best. It is the reason I will keep making "the daily commute".

All photos courtesy of Gym Jones.

Made some new friends...

...caught up with some old ones.

Some traveled from as far as Denmark...

...and couldn't be more excited to be there.

Valdez Ice Climbing Trip Report

2011-03-03T11:37:00.000-08:00

Trip report with pictures here: ->LINK<-

Valdez, Alaska

2011-02-24T22:36:00.000-08:00

I can't remember how long I've wanted to come climb ice here.

Cody Wyoming Ice Climbing

2011-02-17T17:16:00.000-08:00

Trip report with pictures here: ->LINK<-

John Frieh Climbing Presentation Seattle Feb 3rd

2011-01-31T20:23:00.000-08:00

It just occurred to me that I should have mentioned this sooner. Better late then never I'm hoping...?

Seattle area based climbers: the Boeing Employees Alpine Society has asked me to do a presentation this Thursday, February 3. Though they have given me artist license with respect to what is actually contained in the presentation (cue sheep jokes) they have requested the overall subject to discuss how professionals such as myself (for those of you who don't know yes I have a day job beyond just training and climbing) can best use the local resources in combination with training to "go big" in bigger ranges like, say Alaska.

So yeah:

Thurs. February 3rd @ 6.30 PM
7775 East Marginal Way S. Seattle, WA 98108
Building: 2-22

Even though the BOEALPs are hosting it is open to the public. Hope to see you there!

Cube Farmers Represent

Always Another Head

2011-01-28T11:22:00.000-08:00

Gym Jones Salvation Site

Always Another Head

He talked with me also about how this thing that enables you to create is the thing that makes you suffer, suffer so much that you hate your fate, which has driven you to it, because it is not a choice. You start doing it and then you cannot stop, and the more you do it, the more it makes you suffer. And you cannot get rid of it once you have felt it. You cannot kill it, no matter how much you hate it for making you suffer. You try to kill it, but it is like the snake with 100 heads; there is always another head.

FOAD

2011-01-14T09:43:00.000-08:00

"If you want respect for your past, it means that you have a problem with your present and even more with your future."

Where are you going? What are you doing today to get there?

First Ascent of The Watchtower

2011-01-10T09:58:00.000-08:00

Chances are even if you do live in (or near) the state of Washington you've never heard of Strobach. Strobach is located just south of Rimrock, WA on highway 12. It's a 2-3 hour snowshoe from the car to the climbs. Some would argue the climbs arent worth the hike. I would respectfully disagree with that but then again hiking to climb something is exactly my idea of a great weekend.

This past weekend Dave Burdick and I made the first ascent of "The Watchtower"

Ever since the publication of "Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide" in 2003 the word has been out about "The Watchtower".

Steep.

Long.

Unclimbed.

Many have made the 3 hour hike to it's base only to opt out. I personally did this on two seperate trips.

But not this weekend.

Trip report with pictures here: -> LINK <-

Training to Failure

2010-12-27T10:17:00.000-08:00

Link: Gym Jones December 26 2010

We often design the workouts so the athlete must go increasingly harder or faster as the workout evolves. Sadly, the opposite practice where one slows down, takes more rest, strips weight and asks for a spot is common elsewhere. If practicing to slow down doesn't make sense then how can the many training phenomenon one might describe with the broad phrase "training to failure" make sense? In our opinion they don't, which is why we won't consciously train to failure or put together debilitating suck-fests as a common training "method."

How are your sessions designed?
Is your warmup an actual warmup or is it a workout?
Do you incorporate "finishers" into your program design?
When you tell others about your workout do you cite how hard it was? Or how intelligently it was designed?

Any asshole can write a hard workout: Burpees for time. Hill sprints. Squats to failure. Etc etc.

But does a hard workout make you better? Will a hard workout help you reach your goal?

Programming matters.

Ice Season 10/11

2010-12-20T11:11:00.000-08:00

Finally kicked off my 2010/11 ice climbing season this past weekend in Colorado. Managed a tick of the Ames Ice Hose in "respectable" conditions among some other classics.

Some pics from the trip can be found here

As this blog is very interested in training for climbing as well as actual climbing this late season (for me) kick off raises some interesting questions:

- Will this later season start result in less sport specific volume for me by the end of the season? Will less volume result in either diminished performance or no improvement(s) over the 09/10 season?
- Did a longer period of time since I last ice climbed mean I had "lost" more from my technique?
- Is there any way to simulate ice climbing volume in the gym?
- Has changing my training approach to ice season since July of this year shown any results (good or bad) to date?
- Is it quality or quantity that matter more for ice climbing performance? Or are they equal?

At this time I dont have solid answers to all of these questions however I suspect in the coming months I will. Stay tuned.

"Who has shaped your Training Style?"

2010-12-08T14:16:00.000-08:00

Pat M raised some very pointed but fair questions on my recent post here.

John,

Who has shaped your Training Style? Mark Twight? others at Gym Jones? Greg Glassman? Robb Shaul?

What did Gym Jones convey that rang true enough for you to stay with them?

You have invested a bit of capital into various seminars, you are a Salvation Site member, did these seminars teach you more then you could have learned on your own? Really?

I am currently following my own path. More and more I believe it is the right path to be on.

V/R,

Pat M

Fair questions Pat: I appreciate the candidness. As requested:

Who has shaped your Training Style? Mark Twight? others at Gym Jones? Greg Glassman? Robb Shaul?

Similar to what Scott says in his comment whether we like it or not to some extent everyone has shaped everyone else. Often you observe others methods and decide that is exactly what you won't do. Other times you try something out, see some gains, and then find you have to modify the program or, even worse, find a completely new one.

But to answer your question completely Gym Jones very openly and very proudly cites who has shaped their philosophy. Furthermore they will not attempt to tell you it was them that invented the deadlift/box jump combination or any other of the workouts you can find on the schedule. The first page in the seminar material is nearly half a page of names of those who have influenced or contributed directly or indirectly to the Gym Jones project. So similar to how others have influence the Gym Jones project, Gym Jones among others have influenced me. That said Gym Jones is easily the largest influence in my training approach.

What did Gym Jones convey that rang true enough for you to stay with them?

I cant cite one particular item or fact that is my reasoning for as you put it "staying with Gym Jones." Instead I cite my personal gains in my climbing and gym fitness. I cite results. The Gym Jones programming written for me has given me great gains and for that I am very grateful.

You have invested a bit of capital into various seminars, you are a Salvation Site member, did these seminars teach you more then you could have learned on your own? Really?

Have I invested some capital? Absolutely. As money doesn't grow on trees (if it did it would be paleo right?) what I do is trade coaching services at a local gym for a gym membership (i.e. equipment and space to use it in). This money I save (in addition to gaining valuable coaching experience) I reinvest into myself by putting it towards additional seminars. Some might say I should save it or spend it elsewhere but the gains I have made from these investments are worth much, much more to me.

Could I learn this material on my own? Absolutely! However as I suspect you would agree many, many self proclaimed "best" training programs exist. Without some degree of knowledge one could spend literally years searching, testing, evaluating, refining and experimenting with many of the programs out there. Case in point how many different strength programs exist currently? How many of those claim to be the best? Which one is the best?

So sure: save some money and figure it out on your own. Or save some time and go learn from those that have done the leg work for you. Understand that time is money and though you might save some figuring it out on your own you might save more by saving some time.

I am currently following my own path. More and more I believe it is the right path to be on.

Ultimately we all follow our own path. Gym Jones makes no claim to be "the way" or "the path" and I apologize if I portray them that way. What Gym Jones has done for me and so many others is provide the means to illuminate your path to your destination.

Train to climb? Or climbing as training?

2010-12-08T09:39:00.000-08:00

Where are you?

A beginner?

A seasoned veteran?

Are gains in your sport becoming harder and harder? If so is more climbing the answer?

"Solving the problem is as easy as deciding what you want..." Gym Jones Salvation

Who? Why?

2010-12-06T19:57:00.000-08:00

Ask yourself: who has shaped your style? Your ethics? Your path?

Now ask: how did they get there? What path did they follow? How will you get there? Can you get there on the path you are now?

Gym Jones Fundamental Level Seminar Salt Lake City, UT Oct 2010

I learn from the best because I want to be the best I can possibly be.

Who do you work with? Why?

R.I.P. Billy Pine

2010-11-12T11:21:00.000-08:00

Rob Fusco provides the megaphone; Shawn tells the story.

Take the time to read this you'll be glad you did.

"What is the purpose?"

2010-11-02T15:48:00.000-07:00

Pat M recently posted this comment on my training journal

Is this your training, or training written for others? if so, who? What is the purpose of this training? Thanks,

Pat

Pat asks an excellent question that I thought deserved a more public discussion instead of letting it get buried in the comments. Additionally this comment presents an excellent opportunity to expound on what I consider an important point:

What is the purpose of the training?

First the easy part: my training journal until recently (more on that in a second) is a public record of what I did (or didnt do) each day. Though my first post was in March of 2008 you will see I imported a number of previous sessions dating back to May of 2007. I keep a more personal paper version that is much more detailed (diet, BW, supplements if any, recovery practices, thoughts, etc) as electronic copies just aren't as reliable as good old fashioned paper. Why bother with both? Sending someone a link to a workout is much easier than taking a photo of one's training journal or retyping it out. Additionally I have found the awareness that others are looking puts additional personal expectations on myself.

Though I have been a coach since the summer of 2007 it has always been leading sessions with other people's programming. It was not until July of this year that I finally started running sessions that I programmed which I started labeling "Frieh Session" in my training journal. These sessions are every Tuesday and Thursday morning at CrossFit Fort Vancouver; Adam has been gracious enough to permit me use of his facility. If you check the Fort Vancouver blog you will see that what CFV does on Tuesday and Thursday is not what my athletes do.

Why not just do the Workout of the Day?

On to my next point: one of the prerequisites for attendance of the Gym Jones "Advanced Program Design & Theory" seminar is submission of training logs and training programs from the athletes or individuals the seminar participant has worked with.

To complete this prerequisite and more importantly gain valuable experience applying the seminar content from the first two Gym Jones seminars I am working with a group of athletes that attend these sessions. One of the first things you will notice is often multiple workouts or different numbers of reps/sets for the same exercise during one Frieh Sessions.

Why not have everyone do the same workout?

As I discussed in detail here different tasks, whether they be sports or job functions or even training goals, all have different attributes. If you so decide to be the best you can possibly be at something then you must emphasize certain attributes in your program design. Cyclists do not need to be able to do 25 dead hang pull ups to win races. Marathoners do not need to be able to snatch their body weight to win races. Because of this they do not need to waste valuable training time trying to do so. And I will not waste my athletes time learning things that have no bearing what so ever on their sport specific performance.

Secondly just because two athletes have the same training goal does not mean they should be doing the same program.

Everyone has different strengths and weaknesses. One climber might already have an excellent endurance base but poor strength to weight where as the next one might be the complete opposite. If this is the case would you have them both do the same workouts every day?

Which brings me to the most important point. Just because big name famous climber __FILL_IN_THE BLANK__ has been doing a lot of running or campus board work lately does that mean you should also?

Of course not!

Unless you have the same exact training history as well as training goals as big name climber why would you follow programming written for someone else? Sure it might have worked for him or her but that doesnt mean it will work for you! Will following Will Gadd's programming result in you climbing M8? If you cant climb WI5 yet what do you think?

This is the same story regardless of the pursuit. You and big name cyclist/triathlete/marathoner/skier/etc etc should not be doing the same program.

To summarize the training is mostly mine; anything labeled "Frieh Session" is something my athletes did for me. That said not everything they do is recorded in my training journal. Most of them do sport specific work on their own time in their respective sport.

Programming is an art unto itself. It is not learned in a single weekend seminar. In my opinion it is the difference between good and great coaches as well as good and great results for the athlete.

Feel free to post additional comments here or send me an email if you have specific questions regarding my program design.

meaningful.

2010-10-31T19:25:00.000-07:00

Chapter 8
"Some days we are bastards. We build walls to keep others outside, away. We intentionally separate ourselves. Not because we think ourselves better or special but because we understand those who are within those walls, because we can communicate without speaking, because we see something inside and understand it ... because, despite different origins we are all headed in a common direction. And on that road is breaking down, is stripping down, is stubborn questioning and demand, is disappointment, is a step or two of progress and the smile that comes with it ... and somewhere ahead lies the prospect of evolution."

...and each night before sleep recite the list of those most important to you because at the midnight last-day-of-the-year reckoning your relationships may be the only meaningful experience of life ...

Courtesy of GYM JONES.

Cheat to Win?

2010-10-29T12:34:00.000-07:00

First some background: like most of you I have a job. Unlike most of you (I'm assuming) I work for a very large company. How large? In the state of Oregon alone my company employees 15,000 individuals. Though we have more than one campus in Oregon you can imagine how large each of these campuses are in order to house this many employees.

Yesterday after work while walking to my car I came across a fellow employee with his trunk open and a socket wrench in his hand. My mind assumed flat tire so I made eye contact and inquired if he needed a hand. In a very curt tone he declined my offer of assistance.

I didnt think anything of it until a half a step later I observed that he wasnt, in fact, changing a flat tire.

He was installing his license plates.

Why had he removed them in the first place?

At first I didn't understand it. Was this man so concerned that someone might steal his license plates off his car that he removes them and locks them in his trunk every time he comes to work? Possibly... but doubtful as we have both cameras and company security that patrol the parking lot.

Did he just receive new license plates from the DMV and was mounting them? Also possible but doubtful as most people pick them up from either the DMV (so he would have done it there or at his home) or the DMV mails them to your registered home address (i.e. not your place of employment).

But then I figured it out.

This man was parked in the portion of the parking lot strictly reserved for individuals who carpool to work. In an attempt to encourage employees to carpool to work this portion of the lot is the closest to the entrance/exit of the building. Those of us who don't carpool (such as myself) must walk maybe an additional five minutes to reach the non carpool parking lot. You must apply for and display your carpool permit or our company security will ticket you. Each infraction you receive is reported to your respective manager. His car did not have a carpool permit hanging from the review mirror.

To avoid a ticket this individual had taken the time to remove his license plates to prevent security from identifying the car as his.

It was apparent to me from his appearance this man was absolutely overweight; possibly obese. He was so deconditioned that the mere act of kneeling and operating a socket wrench had left him slightly winded, his forehead was beginning to produce sweat droplets in lieu of the cold autumn temps.

Though others might, I did not judge him for his appearance as I do not know exactly why he is overweight. I do, however, hold him in contempt for his actions.

Instead of parking in the non carpool parking lot where he is suppose to and walking five minutes (exercise that he so obviously needs), instead he choses to spend that five minutes removing and remounting his license plates.

I am disgusted.

Has it come to this? Is five minutes of walking too much to ask?

In the age of lap bands and liposuction I take solace in the fact that ducking accountability for one's actions today will always ultimately result in a larger penalty later in life.

I will continue to enjoy my five minute walks with the knowledge that I will still be able to enjoy them fifty years from now.

Lie Detector: The Battle for the Mind.

2010-10-25T11:02:00.000-07:00

I received an email from a name I didn't immediately recognize with the subject "Lie Detector". Curious, I opened it to read this:

John,

I had a race this morning. 10K run, my first, and the first race I've really given a damn about since high school. I had one thought going through my head over the last 1000m or so -

"Your muscles are lying to you, don't believe the lies."

Thank you.
Cameron
(skinny, bald guy from the last seminar)

Turns out Cameron was at the last Gym Jones Fundamentals seminar in October. If you've ever had me coach you through a particularly challenging workout then you know exactly what Cameron is talking about... in fact you might even chuckle.

If you havent been coached by me but have been in a situation where your muscles are screaming at you, or you are convinced you going to either spontaneously combust or seize up, then you understand the state of mind I am referring to.

I call it the bargaining point. You body will tell your mind anything in an attempt to make it stop.

"You're going to puke"
"This hurts"
"You're going to injury yourself"

The list goes on.

These, for all intensive purposes, are lies.

Sure your body might have told you that you were going to puke and perhaps you did... but so what? Are you injured for life? Did you stain your favorite shirt? Life goes on.

But what about the time your muscles were convinced your legs would fall off if you pedaled any harder? Did they? Or were you bluffed again?

Listen to your body but learn to filter out the signal from the noise. Win the battle for the mind.

Don't believe the lies.

Why Salvation?

2010-10-18T10:05:00.000-07:00

On my training journal Brady asked this question in the comments:

"Hey John, Colby's brother here, I was wondering what kind of info is available in the Gym Jones member's section. I've been thinking of paying that fee, and I know you have mentioned that is one of the best things someone can do to further their training/education. I don't want specifics (it's private and I understand that), just curious as to what I could expect to learn. If you could email me that would be great.
Thanks,
Brady"

As of October 17th the Salvation site has:

57 Videos
5 Audio broadcasts
15 Training Plans (covering 1-3 months for various outcomes, PDF download)
30 Articles in the Knowledge section
66 Q&A files
2100 (+/-) Images in the Schedule section, with extensive captioning to teach movements and theory
77 Images in the Knowledge section
And a several tens of thousands of words describing the training and supporting ideas.
All content on both the Salvation and Public sites is searchable from the Salvation site.
Images are searchable by caption, movement type, and date.
Videos are tagged by movement and workout classification.

We have made licensing agreements with individual bands and a couple of record labels so we may legally use good music for the video soundtracks. Check out the Musical Influence 2 article in the Knowledge section to find links for the bands currently featured on the site.

Compare this to November 6th 2008, a little less than two years ago when the Salvation site first went live:

As of today on the Members site there are:
8 Videos
4 Audio broadcasts
1 Month-long Training Plan
5 Articles in the Knowledge section
14 Q&A files
69 Images in the Schedule section
13 Images in the Knowledge section
And a few thousand words describing the training and supporting ideas.

First and foremost comparing the Salvation contents in November 2008 to that of October 2010, there should be no doubt whatsoever how committed Gym Jones is to the Salvation project. None.

Secondly, what is not captured in that list is the Member Forum is now live. Ask intelligent questions. Get thorough, relevant answers. Benefit from the insights of others just like yourself.

But what will you learn? Not knowing the foundation of knowledge you already have built I wont assume everything will be new material for you.

For me one of the biggest area of personal growth has been in the area of program design. As it has been shown just about anyone, myself included, can be "certified" to teach someone how to squat, push and pull. However does this mean that person also understands how to best combine these movements to support their athletes goals?

Personally speaking at the time I was "certified" though I could write a challenging workout I had no clue what a month of workouts should look like. How many strength days? How many endurance days? When does endurance start? What about power endurance? What is power endurance? What isn't power endurance? Can you confidently answer these questions?

I couldn't. But now I can.

Since joining the Salvation site I have learned forms of programming superior to the random workout approach. I understand why all top tier athletes DO NOT follow the same training program. I understand which rep and load schemes will and will not make you stronger without adding body mass. The list goes on.

One of the greatest assets of the Salvation site is that it is like a training program. The more you put into it the more you will get out of it.

Feel free to post further questions to the comments or email me directly.

Sled Work

2010-10-15T10:05:00.000-07:00

At eight and half months Jack likes pushing things and trying to pick things up.

Ueli Steck - The Swiss Machine

2010-10-14T09:50:00.000-07:00

While you were composing yet another blog entry on how rad you are Ueli was training.

Gym Jones Fundamental Seminar

2010-10-13T11:43:00.000-07:00

So: how long did it take you to master the clean? Forget the jerk part: just the clean.

245# @ 185# BW in 2008

Chances are if you're like most out there you're still practicing it. Over and over... elbows, heels, vertical pull... the list goes on. It always seems to be something but for that very reason you keep practicing.

Being a coach or trainer or __fill in the blank__ is no different. It takes hundreds (understatement?) of hours of practice, many of those under the attentive eye of someone much more experienced than you, before you even begin to grasp the fundamentals of what your athletes need from you. Anyone who claims different is fooling no one but themselves.

I think one of the hallmark signs of a good coach is one who has embraced the fact that he/she doesn't, in fact, know everything and has made a commitment to put as much effort into improving their knowledge set as they have into improving their physical capabilities.

More succinctly: if you aren't training your mind at least as much as you are in the gym you are failing your athletes.

In my opinion I am still a novice coach. I first realized this in 2008 about the same time that photo was taken and have since then made an effort to improve my knowledge base. My efforts have introduced me to some great people as well as great coaches.

Of all the individuals and organizations I have worked with I still havent found a better organization than Gym Jones. I paid $1800 to attend the "Fundamentals" in February of 2009: it was worth every penny. This past weekend I was given the opportunity to assist at a Fundamentals seminar. In the short period of time since I attended in 2009 Gym Jones has some how managed to pack in even more content and information into the two day seminar. Considering the fact that the seminar is now priced at an even $1000 I can't think of a better personal investment for any aspiring coach or athlete. I doubt you can either. Sure you could drop a $1000 on new skis or a new bike or new ice tools or fancy lifting shoes and wrist wraps and sure they might improve your PRs a little but then what? If you cant master your training program design what hope do you have for continued improvement?

Highlights for me on this trip included a significant improvement on my hill climb test (you'll remember my previous time was unacceptable), meeting Burkey of Station 515, Steve House, and Jennifer Raff, and coaching along side some of the great coaches that make Gym Jones such a fine organization. Individuals like Mark Twight, Rob MacDonald, Lisa Twight and Michael Blevins. I am blessed and I will not waste this unique opportunity.

I wont divulge the finer details of the seminar here; I think you can gain a good idea of what is covered here. If you have further questions about content I would encourage you to contact Gym Jones or myself. I look forward to meeting some of you at a future seminar.

All photos courtesy of Mark Twight/Gym Jones.

The "seasoning" portion of Tailpipe

Oxygen gets you high... you're taking giant panicked breaths... You accept your fate. Blank faces, calm as Hindu cows.

Burkey of Station 515 doesn't believe the lies his muscles are telling him.

Back to Gym Jones

2010-10-03T18:59:00.000-07:00

This Thursday I will travel south to Gym Jones in Salt Lake City for my second visit this year. Gym Jones is holding a "Fundamentals" seminar and has been gracious enough to allow me to assist at the seminar. I first attended the Fundamentals seminar in of 2009 and have since returned for private training as well as the Intermediate seminar.

Gym Jones is private for a reason. Because of this very reason I consider the opportunity to be a returning guest both a great compliment and great opportunity. I will not waste it.

Stay tuned for updates.

Winter

2010-09-22T10:38:00.000-07:00

Ignore the sales pitch... just check out the climbing porn.

Demo these tools at the Portland Ice Festival!

Scratch and Sniff

2010-09-21T11:26:00.000-07:00

Below is an excerpt from one of the best articles I have read on the Gym Jones Salvation Site.

Even on my best day I could never come close to producing anything as valuable and insightful as this article. I hope what little I reprinted here resonates with some of you as much as it did with me.

And speaking of: I've said it before and I'll say it again

You will not find a better way to enhance your training for $500/year.

Not supplements, not personal training, nothing. The Salvation Site will pay dividends on your training like no other.

"...apparently we haven't said it loud enough or often enough so I'll try again: we care about quality. We care about the depth of our relationships. We do not give a fuck about quantity (except to avoid it as an objective): increasing quantity spreads quality thin. Giving the bare minimum to everyone who comes through the door doesn't appeal to us. We refuse to enter a training or coaching relationship with someone just to pay the rent. Ours is another way. It always has been and this separates our project from others.

...we cannot change or educate or influence wholesale so we aim precisely. In other words we exclude. We exclude because time is finite. We exclude because we care about the people we train. We value them. We are involved in their lives. We steer them towards what they might not otherwise approach or do. We manage and guide them psychologically. We sponsor some financially. We help them achieve their objectives. We say what they don't want to hear - what no one has had the courage to tell them.

...scratch and sniff doesn't teach life's lessons. True experience is beneath the surface. You must dive into the discipline. Immerse yourself. Self-knowledge is individual and personal yet most know themselves by hearsay. Doing defines an individual but many people do only what others expect of them. You become what you do - and how you do it. Dabble without commitment or persistence and knowledge eludes you. It isn't learned in three days or in three weeks. Few will master the essentials of an art or discipline in their lifetime. Life is full of distractions. To grasp a thing's essence concentrate, focus, and reject diversion. Go deep."

Apparently.

2010-09-07T11:02:00.000-07:00

Today I did my job as a coach.

Dear Concept2 Rower

"...exposed all of my mental and emotional weaknesses"

"...the only thing I want to do is rip your face off."

Any coach can make you do something over and over until it is physically challenging. That's the easy part.

Can your coach challenge you mentally? Can they push you past your perceived limits? Bob's mind told him he was going to puke if he continued. I called his mind's bluff.

Bob didnt puke.

Imagine that.

See you in the gym.
XOXO
"the other guy"

Mobility!

2010-08-25T09:06:00.000-07:00

If you're like me you recognize that, though you have decent flexibility, it could be a lot better (Sotts Press anyone?)

Building on that though you have a handful of stretches and exercises that encourage improved flexibility and mobility, admittedly it's a fairly short list.

Then consider checking out Kelly Starrett's daily mobility workouts: http://mobilitywod.blogspot.com/

Never more than 10 minutes and if followed will likely force you to do the stretches you normally avoid.

Fitness Accesories

2010-08-20T14:00:00.000-07:00

Today all we had was an exercise bike and a driveway.

No juice bar.
No flat screen TVs.
No polo shirt wearing trainers.
No accent wall.
No scented soap in the bathroom.
Not even a stereo system.

Yet 3 people choose to get up early and fight traffic across town to join me for a workout.

Why?

Good question. Hold that thought for a second.

Back to my lack of "fitness accessories"... would some accessories be nice? Of course! Who doesn't love grapefruit scented hand lotion?

But if you're failing as a coach to meet the fundamental reason why that person walked in the door in the first place how long do you expect them to tolerate your inabilities? Do you think your fitness accessories will make up for it? If so for how long?

I think you already know the answer.

82nd in the world: Does it matter?

2010-08-11T13:25:00.000-07:00

Today I rowed 5000 meters in 17:49.4. Previously I was unsure if I could even go under 18 minutes flat.

According to the Concept2 world rankings as of today I am:

82nd in the world for men (any age, any weight class)
77nd in the world for my weight class (>165#)
33rd in the world for my weight class (>165#) in my age group (30-39)

for the 5000 meter distance.

Though I am pleased to have improved on my previous 5k time by almost 20 seconds (at a lighter bodyweight none the less) this new PR is bittersweet for me and, when considering the bigger picture I would say I am disappointed.

You see, as I write this, a weather window for a climb I have been coveting for over a year now is, it would appear, starting to take shape. The reason I train each day, why I choose to emphasize certain lifts or energy pathways over others, is for opportunities just like this: to go climb something!

Admittedly I have other responsibilities in my life that are unfortunately preventing me from getting on a plane. That's life as some would say.

But that said the point I'm trying to make here is dont loose sight of why or what you train for. New personal records are great. But training is only training and will always be secondary to the actual task.

Fortunately this will not be the last weather window for me. The training will continue. I will not loose sight of the bigger picture. I will continue to climb.

"What, like in the face?"

2010-08-10T12:22:00.000-07:00

"You just want me to hit you?"

Let the record show: I'm a big fan of exercises that, if done half ass, result in getting hit in the face. Especially since you can blame no one but yourself.

In related news the Frieh sessions are coming along well. Lots of athletes already showing confidence in lifts they were just introduced to but a few weeks ago. Others are finding new perspective on what constitutes a "pretty challenging workout". If you're curious what we're doing you can find the workouts in my training journal. Or perhaps you might want to come try a session?


Med balls: not just for cleans and wall balls.

More AK stoke!

2010-08-09T09:16:00.000-07:00

My good friend Daniel got around to making a slideshow/video of his climb this year in the Ruth Gorge. Daniel was in the same area I was but as he was two weeks earlier than me, he encountered MUCH more snow than I did as you will see. Enjoy!

Alaska Range Spring 2010 from Daniel Harro on Vimeo.

Huey and Westman: Slovak Direct Video

2010-08-06T10:46:00.000-07:00

Two NW boys, Jesse and Mark, went big this year in Alaska, specifically Denali's Slovak Direct route. The video below documents what was the 5th ascent of the route over 80 hours and 3 bivies.

Mark has been both an indirect mentor of sorts (I cant count of the number of AK beta emails I've sent him) as well as a hero of sorts for me. He has literally climbed the ranks of route difficulty year after year up in Alaska, slowly but surely amassing a solid list of routes. And he is a MOG! I can only hope I can crush this hard some day.

BD grassroots athlete Jesse Huey reports on his ascent of Denali's Slovak Direct route from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Frieh Sessions: Week 1

2010-07-30T19:02:00.000-07:00

Maybe you've heard... maybe you haven't.

After three plus years of coaching "CrossFit" at two different gyms with multiple certifications and seminars completed along the way, some CrossFit, some not, someone is finally comfortable enough to let me develop and implement programming for a group of athletes based on their inputs and my insight into their strengths, weaknesses and needs as individual athletes.

Finally.

Specifically a BIG thanks goes out to Adam Neiffer of CrossFit Fort Vancouver for being gracious enough to not only allow me coach some of his clients but also add additional sessions of my programming to his schedule. I should add he did this within 2 months of meeting me.

Thank you Adam!

And yes: this week I had six individuals of various background, experience, fitness level and most importantly training goals join me at CFV. I look forward to working just as hard for them as their coach as I suspect they will for me as athletes. I will attempt to include updates as both the individuals and programming begins to change.

Stay tuned.

The first sip turned out to be quite potent: "Jonestown Sprint"

Product of our Decisions

2010-07-30T12:39:00.000-07:00

Time hardens habits and patterns. Choices lead to paths, and paths to destinations. One cannot know with certainty where the first steps on any path will lead but the truth is that each of us is a product of our decisions. Laziness and entitlement produce a particular outcome. Hard work and dedication produce a particular outcome. Which have you chosen?

Continue reading the rest here: Gym Jones

"It"

2010-07-24T10:09:00.000-07:00

They say, "I can't do that because ..." and a list of reasons follows. Well those that can organized those reasons out of their lives precisely so that they CAN do it. It's a question and an answer about what is important. We sacrifice and change to accommodate what is important to us. Everyone does - no matter what "it" is. And if we truly believe in "it" we don't make excuses or whine about why we are not able to do something different. We don't compare ourselves to others who made different decisions. We are individuals and our lives are our own, not better, not worse, simply different, and we are living them. Choices lead to actions that produce results, and those affect the rest of our lives. So be careful, and be aware. Keep the goal in sight, with enough sensitivity to understand whether your choices and actions take you closer to it or further from it. No matter what "it" is.
Gym Jones Salvation

Don't Bullshit Yourself: RSA

2010-07-22T10:47:00.000-07:00

Since my recent post regarding the Intermediate Level Seminar at Gym Jones, specifically the portion where I mentioned I will be changing my program design:

"On Saturday Rob, Matt, 2 gentlemen from Denmark and a gentleman by the name of Tommy all ran Beacon Hill. Beacon Hill gains 2200’ in 2 miles topping out at an elevation of 7137’. We all agreed my time of 40:18 was too slow for a climber. As a result of this “test” you will see a shift in my programming in the months to follow. Stay tuned."

I've had a few inquires regarding those changes. What will I be changing? What will I do different? Will you be doing those runs weighted? And so on.

First off: thanks for the inquires and more importantly thanks for affirming that people are actually reading this thing. I often wonder if my time would be better spent training.

But I digress: this line of questioning allows me to make a very important point.

One of the most important tools you can have in your "coaching toolbox" is the "Ruthless Self Assessment" tool or the RSA as I call it.

The program you or an athlete should follow is dictated by what they are training for. Is it a sport? An event (race, climb, etc)? The unknown?

Each of these tasks have requirements that will determine how successful you are: be fast, be strong, and so on. If you are unsure of what traits you should possess analyze the top performers in this task. What traits do they have? What traits do they lack?

Next: enter the RSA tool stage left.

How close are you to those traits? Where are you matched? Where are the gaps? Are you in excess of any of these traits? And as I like to say "Dont Bullshit Yourself"

Using me as an example my chosen task is alpine climbing. We can even narrow this down to alpine climbing in Alaska in the spring.

Next, look at some of the climbers that have had great success doing this task.

Where are we matched? Where are the gaps? Where am I in excess?

Of the similarities and more importantly the differences the one that stands out to me is that I am stronger than all of these climber however I cannot climb (feet/hour) as fast as them.

If you were my coach what should I emphasize in my program for the next 3 months? Strength/power? Power Endurance? Cardiovascular Endurance?

If you answered cardiovascular endurance followed by power endurance (but not nearly as important) you are correct.

Does this mean you all should stop your current program and follow mine?

Absolutely not. If your cardiovascular endurance is like most alpine climbers I meet then likely it is one of your best traits. In fact I bet it is on par or perhaps just slightly lower than some of the great alpine climbers. That said I bet your strength and power is not matched with them.

So: use the RSA tool! And dont bullshit yourself when you do it! In fact consider asking someone else well versed in using it to assess your abilities and offer training suggestions. And then build a training program!

Dont blindly follow what others do.

Gym Jones Intermediate Level Seminar

2010-07-15T12:07:00.000-07:00

As you likely already know I visited Gym Jones in Salt Lake City over the weekend for a few days of private training followed by the Intermediate Level Programming & Practical Application seminar. This seminar is the second step on the path to becoming a Gym Jones Fully Certified Instructor. Currently no one outside of the facility in Salt Lake has earned this certification and I hope to someday become one of the few. I can say with confidence few will be certified by Gym Jones as the standards they have laid out will be a challenge for anyone to achieve... much more than paying some $$$ and collecting your certificate.

If you’re not really interested in why, you might as well skip ahead to the pictures at the bottom. If you’re interested in what, who, or why Gym Jones or why does programming matter keep reading.

Though Gym Jones is most known for delivering both the fitness and appearance of the “barely-clothed protagonists” in the movie 300 (and has since worked with other actors such as Jude Law in Repo Men) what most people are unaware of is just how many unique individuals Gym Jones works with. In the short time I was there I trained alongside police officers from Denmark, a female kick boxer tuning up for a title fight, Pan Am Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu medal winners (among other titles they’ve won), the drummer from the band Fall Out Boy, and of course fitness professionals from around the US, to name a few. What I’m trying to convey is though it isn’t apparent from the website the diversity of athletes that pass through the doors is as great as their collective abilities. This population has given Gym Jones broad experience in advising athletes on a myriad of challenges.

This was my third trip to Gym Jones; my first visit was in February of 2009 for the fundamentals seminar. My experience at that first seminar along with the content on the salvation site prompted me to return in July of 2009 for additional private training: it was apparent to me it was Gym Jones that could take me to the next level in my climbing. During this visit Gym Jones crafted a training plan specific to my strengths and weaknesses as a climber that allowed my fitness to peak right before my trip to Alaska this year. During the time leading up to this trip I set a number of personal records in both my lifts and climbing ability. I believe the correct saying here would be “the proof is in the pudding.”

That said it shouldn’t come as a surprise that when Gym Jones rolled out the additional seminars this year I signed up for the first intermediate seminar they offered. Instead of diving right into the “what we did” (as I’m guessing most of you are most interested in) at the Intermediate seminar tolerate me a brief explanation of “why we did it” or “why it is important”. Doing this I suspect will illuminate the importance of what we did.

Anybody can write a workout. Ask anyone at your gym for a workout and most likely they will be able to give you something challenging. Squats, dead lifts, pull-ups, running, jumping… all valuable exercises that will improve your fitness. So which ones should we use? And in what frequency? And what if I want to get in shape for something (climbing) that is different than what you’re getting in shape for? To expound on the example further: how many pull-ups do I do when I’m climbing? How many pull-ups will a cyclist do in a road race? Would you agree these two numbers are different? If so and you were in charge of training these two athletes would you make them both do pull-ups? Or would you make the climber do more than the cyclist?

What you have an athlete do day to day (and the scenario I just discussed) is called programming. Programming in my opinion is what separates the good athletes from the great athletes... as well as the good coaches from the great coaches. Programming is not easy (ask any coach) and many opinions exist on the best way to program.

What if you don’t have a sport? What if you want to be a well rounded individual? Programming still matters. We all have strengths and weaknesses and building a program that maintains those strengths all while improving those weaknesses requires careful thought and attention to the emphasis in each workout.

If you still don’t believe me consider this: every athlete in the world trains differently. Why? Because each sport they pursue is different. Different sports require different skills which require different training programs i.e. programming.

I arrived in SLC a few days early to maximize my Gym Jones visit. A late Thursday night flight meant Friday the 9th came early for me. I started the day in Big Cottonwood Canyon for a classic 3 pitch climb with my friend Kolin Powick. We quickly simulclimbed the 3 pitch route and then headed for coffee and bagels at Black Diamond.

Starting the day off right:

Kolin is the quality assurance manager at Black Diamond which happens to be what I do at Intel so we talked shop while I did a quick tour of the place.

Following Black Diamond I headed over to Gym Jones for workout #1 of the day. I should have seen it coming but following a warmup Rob and Matt had me row a 5k for time. A few previous blog posts this month have dealt with the 5k/18 minute issue and well, Rob being Rob, thought it would be great to provide me the opportunity to test again. I failed. Worst time ever. Altitude? Under recovered? Doesn’t matter. I didn’t hit 18 minutes.

I should mention here though I have traded many emails and phone calls with Matt of Project Deliverance I had never actually been introduced. Matt is everything I expected: young, driven and a true student. His knowledge of training methodology exceeds many other trainers out there even though he is still in his early twenties. Expect great things from him.

Following lunch with Matt and a nap I returned to Gym Jones for workout #2 which just happens to be a tradition at Gym Jones: Friday’s workout is known as “Fuck You Friday”. The intention isn’t to fuck the athletes participating (though it has been known to happen), instead it is to provide the athlete an outlet for the events of the prior week.

But before I get into FYF prior to the workout I had the opportunity to discuss the mental requirements of alpine climbing with Mark. To the climbers reading this you understand how great a gift this is… for those of you who aren’t climbers well: it’s like getting to ask God what the meaning of life is. This one hour was the crown jewel of my 4 days in Salt Lake City.

Following my time with Mark was Fuck You Friday; the details can be found in my training journal. The short version is Rowing + AirDyne + SkiErg = personal cardiovascular exploration.

A few pictures:

From the same people that brought you the C2 rower, the SkiErg:

Photo courtesy of Gym Jones/MFT

I didn’t change the caption on this one; I thought MFT nailed it perfectly:

“Apparently nothing is more delightful to Matt from Project Deliverance and Maximus than to watch John Frieh dig a really deep hole with the first 15-sec sprint. He pushed over 1500 watts. And then he paid.” Photo courtesy of Gym Jones/MFT

On Saturday Rob, Matt, 2 gentlemen from Denmark and a gentleman by the name of Tommy all ran Beacon Hill. Beacon Hill gains 2200’ in 2 miles topping out at an elevation of 7137’. We all agreed my time of 40:18 was too slow for a climber. As a result of this “test” you will see a shift in my programming in the months to follow. Stay tuned.

View from top:

Photo courtesy of Gym Jones/MFT

Following the Beacon Hill run I shadowed Rob and Matt while they ran one of my favorite Gym Jones athletes through a workout. Ill say she has come a long long way in the year since I last saw here there. Keep up the hard work "P"!

Sunday was the first day of the seminar. The majority of the time was spent building the concepts followed by classroom application (aka a workout). I hit 2 PRs on Sunday: 210 in my OHS and 245 in my jerk. I also learned the way I have been setting up for the OHS is actually making it harder and using Gym Jones method will only result in a new PR for me. Very cool.

Split Jerk PR:

Photo courtesy of Gym Jones/MFT

We ended the day with Jonestown Sprint; my first time trying it. I highly recommend this Push Press/Burpee Pullup combination. Details HERE.

Sprint:

Photo courtesy of Gym Jones/MFT

Sunday night was spent reviewing the day’s notes plus homework and resting for the next day.

Monday was a continuation of yesterday's concept building as well as more classroom application. Additionally we each were tested for competency. The funny part (at least for me) is though this is definitely not my first "certification" or seminar this was the first time I was tested for competency of the material.

Monday ended with another workout; details HERE.

6x2@80% = 385#

Photo courtesy of Gym Jones/MFT

All said I couldn't have scripted a better trip. Personal insight from MFT, personal beat downs from Rob and Matt (the sign of a good coach is one that can push you), exceptional hospitality from Lisa and the rest of the Gym Jones family, finally meeting Matt from Project Deliverance and new insight into program design. I am blessed.

With respect to program design you will see very quickly a shift in my programming as well as some test cases I hope to detail here. Stay tuned. Additionally if are coming the realization that perhaps your programming could be improved I would highly recommend looking into the Gym Jones salvation site. This first step will greatly enhance your training.

Until then see you in the gym. Or in my case running hills!

Fuck You Friday

2010-07-11T20:58:00.000-07:00

Some gyms have "fun day" Friday

Gym Jones has Fuck You Friday.

Case in point (photo courtesy of Gym Jones/Mark Twight):

I'm out here for the Gym Jones "Intermediate Level Programming & Practical Application" seminar, the second step on the path to becoming a Gym Jones Fully Certified Instructor.

Ill have much more to report soon but that is all for now.

Pace vs Gut it Out Part 2

2010-07-07T12:28:00.000-07:00

For those of you that missed it a few days ago I used my recent 5000 meter row time (18:09.0) which was exactly was it was 10 months ago to both make a few points as well as (hopefully) spur some conversation.

Jonathan made some great observations and points in his comment:

Hey John,

As a climber and dedicated athlete (an soon to be dad) myself, I follow your posts to help keep the stoke up, which I thank you for. Any who, I thought I would throw out a comment about this one, because I was also a competitive rower for six years as well.

As a climber (or rower) we often look at the numbers as a reflection of strength or stamina but not as often a function of good versus bad technique. I know that in the boat, when I was racing fours and eights, you could be the strongest guy around with the longest stroke, but if you couldn't transfer that power efficiently and effectively to the water, you might as well stay on the dock.

Surely you know the same is true in climbing as well. The biggest guys are not necessarily the strongest climbers. Technique that applies efficient use of the power is the key. My suggestion for creeping under that 18 minute mark is to not think about the 5K so much as a race based on lung capacity and muscle power, but instead a function of putting out one perfect stroke after another. For example, if your back collapses (even just a little) when you start to push or you start with slightly flexed arms, you start to loose complete transfer of power. It is a chance to be extremely disciplined about the use of energy. A single, focused swing into the right spot in the ice uses energy more efficiently than blindly hacking away. Keep up the hard work!

All the best,

Jonathan

to which I replied:

Hey Jonathan

Thanks for following along and congrats on the soon to be dad!

I appreciate the comments especially coming from someone who knows what they're doing when it comes to rowing. Your "single, focused swing into the right spot in the ice uses energy more efficiently than blindly hacking away" analogy was excellent!

Part of the problem with my post is I did omit some details like why 18 minutes instead of efficiency. Your comment pointed that out as well as brought out some additional great discussion points so I'm going to do a follow along post tomorrow with some more background + some discussion of your points.

Which is exactly what this blog post is about.

First: why the focus on 18 minutes? A good friend of mine and mentor Rob two weeks ago rowed a 16:55 5000 meter row. Yes: sixteen minutes and fifty five seconds. I wrote it out so you wouldnt think it was a typo. That is a 23 second PR over his previous time (which was also very fast).

Naturally as most of us do anytime we crush a workout the first thing we do is talk trash to all our friends. Rob in addition to his usual insults informed me if I couldnt get under 18 minutes I should reconsider coming down this week. I of course took the bait hook, line and sinker as have since rowed 3 5ks for time.

None of them have been under 18 minutes.

So, to reiterate, my emphasis on the 18 minute mark is nothing more than good old fashion gym competition which may or may not be a good thing.

So with that said, and as Jonathan pointed out, I should instead be focused on (and I quote):

"My [Jonathan] suggestion for creeping under that 18 minute mark is to not think about the 5K so much as a race based on lung capacity and muscle power, but instead a function of putting out one perfect stroke after another."

as if I do this my time will have no choice but to come down. Doing things as efficiently as possible will only guarantee greater results in the end. Well said Jonathan.

What else? The other (main) point I was trying to make was this:

Timed workouts are used to measure increased or decreased fitness on a given day, within the limitations of the gym. What is much much more important are trends. Tracking performance over a six month period provides much more useful information. If I had plateaued/stalled in all my lifts/times then sure: I might agree that I am not improving and need to tweak my training program. But I havent and though my 5k time was identical I am comfortable saying the programming is working.

Please keep up the good commentary all!

See you in the gym

Pace vs Gut it Out

2010-07-06T08:28:00.000-07:00

A tale of two 5000 meter rows

A fast initial 1k; pace the middle 3k, kick the last 1k:

How long can you hold 1:48/500m? Things fall apart:

Both 18:09.0. Thoughts:

Am I no more fit than 10 months ago?
Was it the yard work prior to the 2nd row that prevented me from holding 1:48/500M?
Am I still feeling the 5k from Saturday?
Is it because I am 5# lighter than 10 months ago?
Should I have paced the middle row slower? Or gone out slower?

What will it take to get under 18 minutes?

Gym Jones Seminar: T minus 7 days

2010-07-01T08:57:00.000-07:00

So if by the off chance you dont know me or (much more likely) havent been following this blog that long one of my greatest influences in both my climbing and training for climbing has been the staff at Gym Jones.

This influence started with a book by the name of Extreme Alpinism. Ask any alpine climber in the United States, if not the world, which book they would recommend for an aspiring alpine climber and with out a doubt they will direct you to Extreme Alpinism.

Extreme Alpinism was written by Mark Twight who years after publishing this book opened a facility by the name of Gym Jones.

So what is Gym Jones? Though I've heard many interpretations to date none is better than that given by Gym Jones:

"At Gym Jones we train athletes. We train professionals. We train individuals. The common thread binding our clients is Will: to suffer, to throw former selves on the fire, to overcome, and to change. For some of these individuals fitness can mean the difference between life and death. For others it is the decision between life well-lived and life wasted. Our objective is genuine fitness, not the appearance of fitness: actual capacity strengthens confidence, a facade is merely physical. We use old ideas, and new ones. We are experienced, expert, creative and inquisitive.

Gym Jones is not a cozy place. There are no televisions, no machines, no comfortable spot to sit (just plywood and diamond-plate), and there are no mirrors. The training is difficult. There are no shortcuts. Physical and psychological breakdowns occur. Our culture, dedicated to The Art of Suffering, is both safety net and inspiration. Individuals push hard and risk more alongside trustworthy peers. To maintain this spirit we choose clients who resonate with it. Gym Jones is private, but not closed. The gym is located in Utah."

I first visited Gym Jones in February of 2009 to attend an Athletic Development Seminar and based on my experiences returned as quickly as I could afford (July of 2009) for additional private training and instruction.

Of my time at Gym Jones to date one of the most important things I have learned (and continue to learn over and over) is that the mind is the only muscle truly worth training. That is all physical achievements originated in the mind and if one, such as you or I, has a goal, whether it be a climb, a race, or fitness level, the journey will begin in the mind. What you know will shape how and what you train for that goal; the more you know about how to train the greater your results and potential to achieve your goal will be. It is this reason I continue to seek out additional knowledge and certifications as to be both the best coach and athlete I can be.

For my upcoming trip I will be attending the Athletic Development Seminar II - "Intermediate Level Programming & Practical Application". I will be posting my experiences and finding here so be sure to check back. John Spezzano recently attended a Fundamentals seminar and discussed his experience here as well in subsequent posts. I would encourage you to check them out.

Short Intense vs. Long Slow

2010-06-29T08:21:00.000-07:00

First things first: the training must be functional.

That is the the training being performed must transfer efficiently to the actual task. Movements must mimic as closely as possible those required by the task. The closer the training is to the load, duration, repetition, balance, body position, cardio demand, etc to the task the more functional the training.

So: what is the task?

Sprint marathon?
Half marathon?
Marathon?
Hood to Coast?
Jiu Jitsu tournament?
Climb a 5000' mountain?

Each of these tasks are different and require different physical attributes to complete successfully. How many pullups will you complete while running a marathon? How many pullups will you complete while climbing a mountain?

What I'm getting at is one size doesnt fit all. The training for running a marathon is not the same as the training for climbing a mountain. Do they share some similarities? Absolutely. But they are not, or should not, be the same.

Now let's take this a step further. What if your chosen task is going to take 40 minutes to complete like say a 10K race. What if it takes longer? How long are you planning to take to run a marathon?

If your task requires a longer period of time to complete your training duration (i.e. how long) should be of similar duration.

No: I'm not saying only do long slow runs in preparation for your marathon. What I am saying is if you only do short, intense workouts in preparation for your race you will not perform well. You might finish the race but your time would improve if you included some long slow training.

Dont believe me? Click me -> LINK <-

"The available evidence suggests that combining large volumes of low-intensity training with careful use of high-intensity interval training throughout the annual training cycle is the best-practice model for development of endurance performance."

Give a Fuck or Get Out

2010-06-25T08:51:00.000-07:00

First read this: CrossFit Chronicles

Did you catch it?

"Your passion and authenticity will determine the magnitude of your gym's influence and opportunity."

You cant fake passion and authenticity. Is your coach passionate? Does your coach push themselves? How do you know?

Does your coach work as hard as you do in a workout?
Does your coach have goals they are working towards?
Is your coach constantly working on becoming both a better coach?
Is your coach passionate? Do they walk their talk?

If you are unsure about any of these chances are your coach is more interested in being a successful business instead of a successful coach.

Portland Rock Gym Love

2010-06-23T12:57:00.000-07:00

Many thanks to Kenny and the PRG for the shout out in the Portland Rock Gym City Climber Blog

Generally they tend to feature Portland locals who crush rock climbing in the blog (i.e. not fat alpinist such as myself) so I appreciate them lowering their standards to feature Dylan and I's recent AK trip.

The PRG has also been gracious enough to host the Portland Ice Festival the last five years running even though ice climbing and gym climbing have very little in common. All in all a great crew over there that deserves your support!

Distance to now

2010-06-19T17:54:00.000-07:00

So here we are. Or more accurately here I am. Who else is here?

I started this blog in October of 2007. To be honest I never really was into the blog thing... transforming thoughts in words has always been a challenge for me (understatement?) so I avoided it the best I could. But that all came to an end when Kevin at CrossFit HEL insisted all the coaches have blogs thus ending my blog boycott. Though the name has changed a few times along the way I'm still here.

But coming to the point...

To date this blog has been some climbing both mine and others, a little family content but mostly recycled gym content (i.e. cutting and pasting others material). Sure Ill post the occasional photo from the gym or garage but frankly that doesnt really help anyone. What do you learn from a photo? Exactly.

In my defense to date I havent really felt qualified enough to offer opinions or suggestions on how to train but with over 3 years under my belt I'm starting to form some opinions. Do I have it all figured out? Of course not. Am I still learning? Till the day that I die.

So moving forward I will attempt to generate more original content especially the area of training. Ill be sharing some of the email questions I've received from other athletes and (or I hope) others will chime in. We shall see.

Related to that I would encourage any and all of you to both contribute to the conversation but also post here or email me any questions.

See you in the gym

SLOW news day

2010-06-09T12:21:00.000-07:00

"It's not what you do, it's what you finish." Lisa Twight

Was pleasantly surprised to find Dylan and I's climb on Bradly in the Alpinist Newswires

Can't wait till next year!

Garage Life

2010-06-04T09:31:00.001-07:00

You see an oil pit. I see a squat rack.

Barbell box steps ups: yes you should be doing them too.

...And if this is your first time at the garage you have to ride the AirDyne.

Two birds with one stone: suffer the hold till the rider finishes.

NoPo.

Ruth Gorge 2010

2010-05-20T08:15:00.000-07:00

Trip Report including pics and video -> HERE <-

Because right now...

2010-05-19T08:51:00.000-07:00

Because right now while the rest of us are sitting on our butts staring at a computer screen someone else is out there getting after it

Montana love featuring the great Mr Tapley:

Alaska!

Garbage In Garbage Out

2010-05-11T19:47:00.000-07:00

Because you will never be able to out work a shitty diet:

Whole9 Nutrition Workshop

June 15th in the Portland area. See you there!

More thoughts on "the best way"

2010-04-23T10:24:00.000-07:00

This is just too good not to share

Gym Jones April 23 2008

We believe “artificial” training for a sport (like climbing) is more important at particular stages in the athlete's development.

In the beginning a very high level of general fitness will make the specific training for climbing and the climbing itself much more efficient. A high degree of fitness obtained “in the gym” means one need not train fitness and technique on the rock at the same time because fitness is already OK.

In the middle part of one’s career technique and movement must become automatic and the athlete must learn to modulate power output efficiently so the tank lasts as long as the task. Practicing the sport itself takes precedent because it’s the most efficient use of both time and energy, which are limited.

When technique is developed quite close to the athlete's maximum potential he or she must find other ways to improve, which are outside of the sport. In this period, diet is considered, artificial training revisited, a seasonal or periodized approach to overload and recovery undertaken, the athlete may manipulate body composition and practice sport psychology, etc. None of these things are the sport itself but practicing each improves one's ability to play the sport.

As an example, we know a climber who is quite close to achieving his maximum potential, which manifested as a plateau. He understands that doing only more climbing will provide limited results at this level. However, if he improves his core structure (torso-limb integrity), learns to recover faster so he can train more frequently, increases his oxygen efficiency (systemic and cellular) so he can stay longer on the difficult routes ... all of these things will bring him improvements in his climbing. Perhaps he could improve 2-3% in one year, where he might only improve half of one percent in that same year if he simply continued climbing in the rock gym.

Artificial training must be balanced with specific training but the opposite is also true and has always been true: super specific training must be balanced with artificial training, with general fitness, with techniques used to correct imbalances and overuse injuries that climbing usually causes. Degrees of emphasis vary throughout the year. Attention to corrective training and general fitness will also allow this climber to profit from his experience in ten years. This is true for every athlete: take care of postural and overuse issues, and injury-proof yourself now or else all of the experience in the world will be wasted because injuries will force you to stop the sport long before you can take advantage of your wisdom and efficiency.

Of course, that won’t matter to the athlete who intends to roll over and give in at the age of 30 or 40 ...

What stage are you at in your sport? Are you training correctly? How do you know? Could you make any improvements?

The D word

2010-04-20T07:52:00.000-07:00

"They argue about the details but ignore the whole picture. They do the training (one hour a day) but won't pay attention the other 23. They hide in the hard work - but won't give that same level of attention and effort to the things that will actually give them the biggest bang for the buck" Gym Jones

Thin Models save lives

Reality Check

2010-04-14T07:35:00.000-07:00

click me -> Reality Check <-

"Sometimes we need a reminder that the mountains are out there while we are in here, that people are doing while we are reading or writing about people who are doing."

Not that we should all be literally climbing mountains but that said we should all have goals and objectives we are training for... whether it be a mountain or a race or a tournament. Without an objective it's just exercise. And you're better then that.

Prov 10:4

2010-04-12T20:41:00.000-07:00

Lazy hands make a man poor, but diligent hands bring wealth.

Come get wealthy. NoPo evenings.

The Days of Jack

2010-04-07T11:33:00.000-07:00

Start them young! -> Click Me <-

My neighbors love me

2010-04-06T19:13:00.000-07:00

North Portland 4/6/2010. Get a hold of me if you'd like to join us next time

window to the soul

2010-04-01T19:30:00.000-07:00

Ignore the "is Xfit a sport?" dialogue

Ignore the amount of weight on the bar

In fact even ignore their form

Instead notice the look in their eyes

NC/SC CrossFit Sectionals from Boomer Alred on Vimeo.

The mind is primary.

Ice Climbing POV video!

2010-02-24T13:45:00.000-08:00

So if you've ever wondered what exactly ice climbing would be like perhaps this might help...

David, one of my partners from our trip over the weekend, put together this video for one of the climbs we did which features a fair amount of helmet cam footage. Enjoy!

Mean Green from David Kiehl on Vimeo.

Back in the Saddle

2010-02-24T09:01:00.001-08:00

A little over 2 months since I last threw some tools around and I am pleased to report I didnt completely forget everything!

Cody, Wyoming Ice Climbing Trip Report -> click me <-

"the best way" to train for climbing and Dan John

2010-02-17T11:00:00.000-08:00

I'll do my best to not turn this into a rant (if it does by all means call me out in the comments) but as you all already know

1. I like to climb (understatement?)
2. I have goals in climbing
3. I can't achieve some of those climbing goals in my current state

Therefore I train.

It has been my experience that a large number of people (most of which dont climb) tend to think I train either too much and/or too intensely. On the other side of the fence are a smaller but still represented group of people who do climb but also feel I am training incorrectly.

And either group could be totally right. Yes I said that.

Though I have attempted to be "athletic" or "fit" for most of my life I would argue I didnt get truly serious about training until 3 years ago. Some would say I've been training longer... others would say I havent even begun to train seriously. I would say both points have some validity (?!?).

But coming to my point (I swear I have one) a very wise man told me recently this:

"Others discuss and even argue about which training method is the 'best.' I've participated in that conversation. I won't now though because - the way most people do it - it is only physical training and therefore, for my purposes, one-dimensional and shallow. To me the point is growth, and to be specific: psychological growth. Building strength and endurance is dandy. Hell, it's an admirable objective and pastime in a society of the mostly indolent and obese. But it's EASY. The hard part is what comes next. The hard part is using one's acquired physical capabilities, testing to learn whether those skills are as meaningful or valuable as all the 'atta boy' gym patter pretends. And the really tough part is translating physical capability into equivalent mental horsepower and psychological growth. Nice muscles decorating a 4-bit CPU are (like) lipstick on a pig. And in my opinion, if, using whatever means, one develops his own multi-core processor, then the rest, i.e. the decoration or the physical capability will follow as a consequence. Every meaningful physical achievement that has occurred has originated in the mind. And it's the only muscle worth training."

Any one agree or disgree with that? Post to comments please. Or course I agree with it 100%.

That is why I devote a portion of my already precious time to improving my training knowledge base.

During the past 3 years I've attended a number of seminar with in my opinion some great people who happen to also be great coaches: Mark Twight, Rob MacDonald, and Rob Shaul to name a few. All of these coaches in addition to many other great coaches (Glassman, Pavel, etc etc) all have cited or referenced Dan John at some point and for these reasons I knew I would given the opportunity learn from this man.

This past weekend the opportunity finally arrived and along with Coach Ben Soto and Kelly Dedel we traveled to Crossfit Tacoma and spent a great day with another great person who also happens to be a great coach: Dan John.

Instead of boring you with the details (this post is already long enough) I will say if you are serious about training "the only muscle worth training" you too should go see Dan John. Perhaps Ill see you at a seminar.

Don't be a dabbler!

Yes that is a closed fist cup of water get up.

Try it if you think your TGU form is good.

Coach Soto learns a simple rotator cuff test

uncle. Uncle! UNCLE!

How tight are your hip flexors? Care to find out?

Another great hip flexor stretch

Jibbers!

2010-02-15T16:52:00.000-08:00

This one is for you!

Tight Pants = the death of snowboarding?

Introductions

2010-01-19T16:53:00.000-08:00

I would like to formally introduce Mr Jack Ryan Frieh.

Jack joined us on January 14th of this year at 6:00 pm with 8 pounds 12 ounces on his 21 inch frame.

I suspect Jack will become a regular visitor on my blog(s)... this one and my training journal.

Welcome Jack :)

Patagonia POV

2009-12-31T09:06:00.000-08:00

Not only does he have an excellent taste in music but Mr Colin Haley is an awesome climber. Enjoy

BD athlete Colin Haley wears a helmet camera during a solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Full story here: -> Click Me <-

New Video!

2009-12-23T18:47:00.000-08:00

By the numbers:

-5: High for the day (F)
-14: Temp when we left the car (F)
-14: Temp when we got back to the car (F)
10: hours car to car
3: # of First Ascents
6: # of Pitches Climbed
3: # of Stoked Climbers

Frozen Sweep from Doug Shepherd on Vimeo.

Big Sleep Video!

2009-12-17T14:41:00.000-08:00

Little video from the route we climbed on the last day: The Big Sleep

Quiet Inspiration from Doug Shepherd on Vimeo.

Ice Bender!

2009-12-17T09:47:00.000-08:00

Cody, Wyoming First Ascents + Bozeman Ice Festival -> CLICK ME <-

achieve your goals: simplified!

2009-12-02T14:09:00.001-08:00

Simple. Courtesy of my good friends @ PD

My Thanksgiving Recipe for you

2009-11-26T13:40:00.000-08:00

How to cook a Turkey

Step 1: Tenderize the meat

Run 1 hour in the Palm Springs heat

Step 2: Season the meat

Immediately following the run swim for an hour

Step 3: Cook the meat

Immediately following the swim complete a 20 -> 1 burpee ladder

Substitute rowing or cycling for swimming if needed.
If you prefer your meat extra tender consider increasing the run or swim times.
Works for most types of animals (fowl, swine, etc)
Aggressive German Shepard supervising reps optional.

And in the spirit of Thanksgiving I am thankful for
- solid training partners
- solid climbing partners
- patient and understanding gym owners gracious enough to let me use their space and equipment (many thanks!)
- excellent coaches providing me programming to make a 40+ hour work week project manager an okay climber

See you in the gym

Look in the mirror

2009-11-23T15:51:00.000-08:00

Watch the video on the main page: Gym Jones

"You become what you do"

"You become who you hang around"

Agree or disagree? Post to comments.

More South Fork Love

2009-11-20T12:30:00.001-08:00

So my friend Doug (who I went to the Ruth Gorge with earlier this year) was in Cody, WY not only last weekend (when I was there) but the weekend before... if only I lived as close as he does!

He put together this great video of the routes he was on... some of the same ones Craig and I climbed.

Southfork Love from Doug Shepherd on Vimeo.

Mythbuster

2009-11-17T07:13:00.000-08:00

"the leader must not fall"
"you'll break your ankles if you fall ice climbing"

I am a one man Mythbuster!

More pics -> HERE <-

Single Leg Strength

2009-10-23T09:40:00.000-07:00

So hot right now

RIP the Portland Recycle Bin. One drag too many.

Sunday School

2009-10-21T19:43:00.000-07:00

Classroom for the day

school's in session

Kick. Swing. Repeat.

Good times on the north side of Hood. See you out there

Better Late Than Never?

2009-10-19T11:30:00.001-07:00

I took two trips to Alaska earlier this year: the first one was to the Ruth Gorge

On that trip I met Tim and Jared (team Bacon Pancake as I called them but that is another story)... I reconnected with Tim over the weekend and he sent along these two pics:

Depending on how good your eyes are in the second photo if you look really close you will see two dots in the snow a little below half way in the picture... that is Doug and I on The Escalator route on Mt Johnson.

And as you can see in the first pic the only thing bigger than my grin are the mountains :)

Cant wait to go back!

Game On

2009-10-12T12:49:00.000-07:00

2009/2010 Ice season kick off -> CLICK ME <-

09/10 Ice Season Days to date: 2

Best Vacation? Or Worst Nightmare?

2009-10-07T15:23:00.000-07:00

You decide: -> click me <-

In my highly biased opinion I would chalk this one up as simply brilliant

Where have you been?

2009-10-01T09:56:00.000-07:00

Been here lately?

All photos courtesy of Gym Jones.

Moderate intensity will only yield moderate gains in fitness. At most.

Wanna look your best? Plan on giving your best in the gym.

Working hard isnt finishing first or lifting the most weight. Working hard is doing the best you can in a provided workout.

Your choice.

And many thanks to those of you that visit often: misery loves company

The girls and I

2009-09-21T13:37:00.000-07:00

2.5 hours away

I say start them young

More please!

Dr Dedel

Hope you all got out this weekend! If you didnt this coming weekend is looking like one of your last chances for good weather!

week in review

2009-09-12T09:05:00.001-07:00

A few excerpts from the the past week:

Diamonds in the sky...

...with ~~Lucy~~ Doug?

Closer to home: Beacon Rock

That's Dr. Dedel to you

And of course: where it all starts

Portland Recycles

You think just trail running is going to get your legs in shape for this winter? Hmmm...

Crawl to the finish

See you in the gym

PDX Ice Fest 2009!

2009-09-09T14:32:00.000-07:00

4 years running!

I genuinely hope all of you come! Even if it just for the free beer before you head out for a night on the town... I would love to see you all there!

Mountain Athlete Boulder

2009-09-08T12:45:00.000-07:00

Screenshot from September 8

I would encourage all of you regardless of whether or not you coach to put as much (if not more) effort into improving your training knowledge as you do into your actual training. How else will you know if you are making the best possible choices to reach your goals?

This was my third seminar with Rob and it is interesting to see how his program has evolved since I first ventured to Jackson over a year ago. And he can still yell just as loud as ever :)

See you in the gym

Sad and Embarrassing

2009-09-04T09:54:00.000-07:00

I am not sad and embarrassing.

Thank you Maximus for the motivational words.

Next up: 300FY rematch.

steve

2009-09-03T09:54:00.000-07:00

Bechtel intervals: so hot right now

2 months...

Incredible Hulk Trip Report

2009-08-26T12:31:00.001-07:00

Finally got around to writing this...

Incredible Hulk Trip Report -> LINK <-

I have the nicest climbing partners

2009-08-24T11:11:00.000-07:00

"Dude I don't know if you're going to fit John"

"He's sucking it in!"

"MOG!!!"

Owned

2009-08-24T09:48:00.001-07:00

It starts innocently

So far so good

Owned.

When you're this ugly what is one more head wound?

BONUS: walking around the Oregon Coast Aquarium Saturday evening and a little kid points at me and says loudly to his brother "Billy! Look at that guy's forehead!"

Good times. Is it ice season yet?

Quote of the day

2009-08-19T20:56:00.000-07:00

"Hey! How much dat thing weigh?"

2.5 months to ice season!

There goes the neighborhood

2009-08-03T20:55:00.000-07:00

Weekday Evenings: NoPo

Which weekday night(s) will vary week to week so get a hold of me if you're interested in joining us. 3 months to ice season.

beat the heat

2009-07-27T09:02:00.001-07:00

Left PDX @ 5 am Sunday in attempt to get a few pitches @ Beacon before the temps reached ridiculous... good times

Skander on the corner

Embrace the wide

Stoke

Until next time...

For your bookmarks

2009-07-14T09:07:00.000-07:00

While I was at Gym Jones Rob turned me on to this website: Free Spirits Rowing

Specifically the utilities page is worth bookmarking if you do a lot of rowing.

Now you can get a good estimate of your VO2max without having to pay a bunch of $$$ and/or get a mask strapped to your face or determine what pace you need to row to hit a certain time. Some great tools on the website